India will blow your mind. Ghats burning in sight, shoulder-to-shoulder crowds, uproar of street animals, vastness of smells: a cultural intensity.
In full transparency, nothing you read or hear or see will fully prepare you for all the colours of India. She is mightily headstrong and will show you what she wants you to see. However, if you are thinking of accepting her spellbinding summon, research is crucial. Here are 6 tips, misconceptions, and realities that I learned while travelling India as a female solo traveller in Spring of 2018.
Sunrise at the Holy Ganges River
1. Prepare for stares.
India is always watching. When you peer into the soul of India, it gawks right back at you; it does not jolt away or retract its truth. It will invade your personal space and even unload its luggage onto your sleeper train bed. This can be quite overwhelming at times, so brace yourself for the incessant stares – especially from men. Remember that “personal bubbles” is a lost concept in India. Do what you can to make yourself feel more comfortable: walk with intention and wear modest clothes that cover your body. I think a common misconception is that dressing modestly is done to appease others (i.e., men), but what I actually came to find is that I did it for myself. It made me feel more confident and well-balanced in a country that is so wholeheartedly exposed.
Rickshaws in Delhi
2. The smells!
From the North to South, remote villages to urban sprawl, the smells never soften. And they are heavenly. This is a major misconception that I experienced while travelling India. I think there is a single story attached to India by foreigners that India smells bad. It’s almost like a geographical stereotype that results from assumed poverty levels: “India is poor, so it must smell like sewage.”
Of course, you will encounter brief unpleasant smells, but realistically, India does not inherently smell like sewage or garbage
In my experience, India smells like pride.
It’s the freshly crushed cardamom steaming from a chai cup.
It’s the bamboo burning incense that pays respect to Gods and loved ones.
It’s the fruity musk of bright marigolds for sale in the streets.
If you would like to learn more about single stories and the harm they can impose on different cultures across the world, check out novelist Chimamanda Adichie’s speech on false perceptions and stereotypes. Below is the video link.
https://www.ted.com/talks/chimamanda_ngozi_adichie_the_danger_of_a_single_story?language=en
3. People are looking out for you without even realizing it.
Frankly, India is not an easy country to travel for Westerners – but it’s definitely possible and worth it. The everyday processes and systems flow in a completely unfamiliar way. At times, it is chaotic, overwhelming, and downright confusing. As a woman, it can even be daunting to simply leave your accommodation room. There is so much to take in and you have to constantly be on alert.
A few weeks before my flight was due, I entered a brief panic zone: completely second-guessing my ability to travel solo. I fed myself a lot of cynical thoughts – that I was foolish to embark on such a trip. I let all the stereotypes get to me:
“India is completely unsafe for women.”
“You will get kidnapped.”
“You will be robbed and stranded.”
“You will be hurt and discriminated against because you’re female.”
You get the point. Now, I realize that fretting about these instances is absolutely redundant and quite frankly a terrible blanket statement. These threats can happen virtually anywhere in the world.
As far as female safety goes, the reality is that everyone around you is actually on your side. If you ever feel threatened or harassed, all you have to do is scream, and someone will be there to help. It’s the upside to such population density.
On top of that, I found that when I visually appeared to be confused or stressed, like when trying to find my proper bus/train, someone would just be there to help me find my way. I didn’t even have to ask. It was honestly heartwarming – I felt as if I was being looked out for.
However, this goes without saying, don’t be stupid and use common travelling sense:
- Avoid travelling or going out at night
- Do not wear expensive jewelry
- Do not reveal personal information
- Trust your gut
Holy cow in Varanasi
4. Consider booking with a tour group.
My first few weeks in India were accompanied by a woman named Harsha. She worked for Intrepid Travel, which is an international small-group adventure tour company.
Intrepid only hires local guides, which makes the experience authentic. Harsha radiated true beauty – not just because she’s pretty, but because she’s brave, intelligent, compassionate, a little cheeky, and strong-willed. She smiles when she speaks, and she loves her country. Having a guide like this allowed me to genuinely open up to the whirlwind of India. She was there to answer any question I had, provide a helping hand, and reveal inner and outer intricacies of each city we visited. Not to mention, as a female solo traveller, Harsha provided space for me to feel safe: she knew her country well and she stood up to the patriarchy every. single. day by working a traditional “man’s job”. She taught me a lot about courage and gave me the confidence to finish my travels alone. To this day, I still think of her when I take a chance on myself.
If India continues to enchant you, but the burden of women’s security is holding you back, definitely look into booking with a tour company. Personally, it was the best thing I could have done at the time to reassure my safety.
Evening ritual on the Ganges River
5. Find a Subway!
Like the restaurant kind. Indian cuisine is absolutely tantalizing. The flavours and smells follow you everywhere. I can’t recall a country with so much richness; however, eating curries and pakoras three times a day (every day) can be a lot. I wasn’t able to find a lot of fresh veggies and my immune system was begging for it. I was also super wary of where I should eat to avoid getting sick. When you start craving a piece of home, find a Subway. The veggies taste just as fresh and offer the same amount of crunch when you need to catch a curry break. Of course, they are generally located in bigger cities, so take advantage of that.
Spice market in Delhi
6. Women do not need to be polite to someone who is making them uncomfortable.
Period. Say no, be firm, and stand your ground. In my experience, the confidence you carry is crucial. If a man is making you feel uncomfortable, don’t feel guilty for putting him in his place. Of course, this is easier said than done – but when you are travelling alone, you must stand up for yourself.
Ultimately, just remember that India is never. a dal. moment. There is constant stimulation. The streets are tangled with cows, people, birds, rats, noise, trucks and motorcycles, pigs, dogs, cats, goats, and more people. It is chaotic and it is crazy – but in the best way ever. It just seems to work. So, allow yourself to fall into the whirlwind of India.
As Reymond Page said, “waking up in India is like waking up to life itself.”
I could not agree more.
Check out this video for some of my personal video snapshots!
