Gatineau and Ottawa outdoor climbing
Just moved to Ottawa or Gatineau and looking for a spot to climb outside? You’ve been climbing indoors for a while but are now looking to explore outside? Visiting friends or family in the region but would also like to get some fresh air? This blog will tell you the three main climbing crags close to Gatineau and Ottawa offering different kinds and different levels of climbing.
Western Cwm
The Western Cwm is a group of cliffs around a cwm. It is easily the most popular crag out of the three because it has everything. The North wall, situated on the left side, is a perfect wall to practice or get introduced to crag climbing. It is also easy to walk up to the anchors to set up top ropes. Most of the climb on the North wall are graded at 5.4.
In the middle section of Western Cwm, you have Spindrift wall. It has 6 routes that are 25 meters long, meaning you need a rope longer than 40 meters. Half of the climbs are easy-intermediate trad climbs and easy-intermediate lead climbs. They are long, simple, and fun climbs for trad and lead climbers.
The last section of Western Cwm is on the right and it is called the Cave wall. It has two tope ropes climbs that you can easily walk up and set up the anchors. The two other climbs are intermediate-advanced sport and mixed trad climbs.
It is the perfect spot to go with a group of friends that are on different climbing levels and have fun. It is also a classic crag to bring your friends and introduce them to all three types of climbing.
Eastern Bloc
This crag consists of nine sport climbs ranging from 5.6 to 5.11b grades. The rock is a smooth rounded face offering more of a slab climbing rock. This is whereas a lead climber you get to try some intermediate-advanced sport climbs and where you are at in terms of your climbing level. It will give you a good feeling of what it is like to climb harder routes and once you feel comfortable with the Eastern bloc, you can think of trying the next crag on the list. This crag is also perfect to go and warm up there before going to Down Under since there is no easy route there to warm up too.
Down Under
This crag is just a little bit higher to the left of Eastern Bloc. Down Under is the advanced climbing crag of Luskville Gatineau
park climbing area. There are no easy climbs and they are all lead climbs. They are fun, aggressive, and steep routes. This where you’ll find yourself trying really hard and pushing your limits. You will feel great once you finally redpoint one of those climbs. The grades range from 5.10d to 5.13a.
Conclusion
The Luskville climbing really offers a lot of options for lead climbers but still as some good top rope and trad climbs, most of them being at Western Cwm. There are other crags that were closed off since endangered plants and trees are situated in those parts of the park. Please respect regulations and don’t go climbing there. For more information on the routes and crags, go to
https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/canada/gatineau-hills.
